Thursday, 5 September 2013

Hot Fuzz, new sport route.

Kanga South Wall (formerly Whitemans Crag)
I went ahead and changed the name of this outcrop, why? because the old name sucked. It is the southern reach of the Kanga Wall so I decided this name, Kanga South Wall, will do.

Hot Fuzz
5.8, 80m
FA Brandon Pullan, Darren Vonk, 09/13

I wanted to bolt a two pitch easy route close to the car, this wall provided it. Old routes ascend the face, rusty pitons and gear can be found. The large roof was climbed ages ago and an old bolt is beneath it. Hot Fuzz utilizes the 'best' rock on the face, most consistent climbing and offers a cool position above the reservoir. The route was climbed and cleaned in Sept 2013. Lots of loose small rocks and dirt could still be on the route. Wear a helmet!
The climbing is never hard, the bolts are spacey in spots, only where the climbing is gentle and rock is solid. The 5.8 grade is for one or two moves, the rest is 5.5-5.7.

This route is on the wall above the upper Grassi Lakes parking. At the south end across from the small shack is a trail. Take it switch-backing towards the BIG roof on the Kanga South Wall (formerly Whitemans Crag.) The route starts behind the only tree near the cliff under the big roof. Start high and traverse left to first bolt. Approach 5-10 minutes. Close to the car, a perfect warm up or cool down to Grassi.

Pitch 1, 5.8, 45m: Step left onto foot ramp and angle up. Small crimps and smears bring you to a crack/groove. Up this towards the end of the big roof. From the tenth bolt follow a foot rail out left. Past bolt 11 the anchors are hidden, on good rock. Trend left, not up, into a shallow 'gully' with an anchor. It is a semi-hanging belay. An old bolt under the roof can be seen, be sure to not climb up the dubious rock towards it, stay left. 11 bolts.

Pitch 2, 5.8, 35m: Step up and left onto a small ledge, past a bolt. Good holds out left bring you up a face to a short corner. Up the corner to a small roof, good holds, to a good ledge. Up and left towards a fun arete feature to a ledge with a two bolt belay. 10 bolts.

Descent: The rappel from the second anchor to the first is 30m, spot on, tie knots in the end of the rope. The second rappel is to an anchor 10m off the ground. Third rappel to the dirt, 15m downhill from start of route.

NOTE! Anything dropped or cleaned off the route will fly down the lower steep scree slope to the road, as we found out. Do not drop rocks or huck empty water bottles off, the potential of it hitting a passing car is, well, possible.

Pitch one

Nico seconding pitch two
I also climbed a 1982 route called Student's Route that climbs directly through Hot Fuzz to the top. Student's Route is not worth the time as the old bolts need to be replaced and there are two large, loose blocks near the top.
The below photo shows the new Sharknado (yellow) to the right and the Student's Route (white).


  1. Looks good. Should be people all over it this weekend. Thanks.

  2. Are you sure this isn't "Student's Route", climbed by James Blench and Karl Klassen in July, 1982? (Reference: "Bow Valley Rock", 2000, page 347.)

  3. Hi Allan, you bet. I just climbed the Student Route and added a new photo above with the route line. In 1982 it might have been a gem, but the rusty hardware and loose rock is a deterrent now. I might return to update the old bolts and fixed pins (I removed one with a simple tug).